Do you remember when cafes and restaurants served cream with coffee? Next to the large milk jug stood a smaller jug, from which cream was added to the coffee. Some loved it, others hated it, but all the same: cream was a valuable staple of cafes and buffet tables.
Historically, cream was especially valued in agrarian societies, and its value continued for a long time in all social groups. It is still reflected in old sayings such as "let's skim off the cream", or "cream" referring to socially significant people.
Then cream suddenly disappeared, and hardly anyone seems to miss it. The generation born in the 21st century never got used to the taste of cream and may therefore shun cream cakes, for example.
It's hard to say exactly when cream disappeared from our coffee tables. We estimate that it happened in Finland over the course of about five years. In 2018, the Swedish company Oatly brought oat milk to the Finnish market. Sales were so strong that the shelves of many stores were empty. You had to ask for oat milk separately in cafes and lunch restaurants, where it was hidden somewhere on the "special diets" shelf.
Losing cream and replacing it with a less fatty or plant-based product is one example of an act of responsibility carried out by consumers. Oat milk found its way into the coffee of city-dwelling Finns so quickly that it replaced not only cream but also milk. It is suitable for both lactose-intolerant and environmentally conscious consumers. For example, in S Group stores, sales of oat milk has increased fifteenfold in ten years.
However, companies that emphasise responsibility cannot rely on trends or spontaneous change exclusively. Consumers can act consciously and responsibly, but at some point they also need support for change: "Oh, I could try that new product or recipe". The visibility and positioning of products in stores is the key.
We carried out such an experiment with Osuuskauppa Arina as part of the EIT Food-funded SUCCES project. In an experiment in northern Finland, Tornio Prisma's fruit and vegetable department offered recipes for a few vegetarian dishes and all the raw materials needed for their preparation in the same place. About 30% of the customers who shopped in the store paid attention to the experiment. Almost 80% of those interested in vegetarian food, but also 30% of customers who don't usually prepare such dishes, found the display inspiring. Some customers dared to try the new recipes.
Measures that support getting used to more plant-based food are also being taken elsewhere. In many lunch restaurants, vegetarian food is offered before the meat option, and kindergartens and schools have vegetarian food days. In 2022, the University of Helsinki announced that only vegan food will be served at receptions and university events for conference guests. The same trend has also appeared in many international meetings.
The rise in popularity of oat milk proves how quickly our tastes and values can change. Therefore, it is interesting to consider what the next food item to disappear from our tables will be and what will replace it. Only time will tell, but one thing is certain: our dining experiences are constantly evolving, and shaped by innovation, sustainability and daily choices.
The next time you enjoy a coffee, take a moment to appreciate the journey of the ingredients in your cup. And keep an eye out for the next big change in our culinary world. What do you think it will be?
EIT Food is supported by the European Institute of Innovation and Technology (EIT), a body of the European Union.
